Tahrir and Tear Gas

I usually try to avoid political photos in Egypt. Not because I don't like politics (I love it!) but it's not productive to define a country but just a single element. And let's be honest- most of what's come out of this country for the last year has been clashes and killings. 

However, over the last week, my photos got a bit more political. It started with me sneaking into a press conference led by Hamas leader Khaled Mashal as they announced the Israeli-Gaza ceasefire. I then star-spotted when I saw Nobel Peace Prize winner and presidential contender Mohamed El Baradei and fellow presidential runner-up Hamdeen Sahbahi in Tahrir Square on Friday.

Last night, however, demanded photos. In the previous days, Egyptian president Mohamed Morsi issued a decree which essentially stripped the judicial branch of much of its powers, as well as giving himself the ability to reinstate the disbanded Shura Council.

November 27th, 2012 marked the largest protest in Tahrir since the Revolution. Hundreds of thousands of Egyptians poured into the square, chanting for Morsi to rescind his decree. The energy was amazing, and there was a huge variety of people from all walks of life.

On the side streets, protestors fought pitched battles with Central Security Forces. For the last week, fighting had been contained to Mohamed Mahmoud Street (the infamous area of last years battles) and Qasr el Aini Street. Two days ago, the military built up a wall blocking off Qasr el Aini, which shifted the battles to an area near the American Embassy. Canisters of tear gas were shot at protestors, as rocks were hurled back in return. We had no idea what to expect in terms of a 'welcome' from the protestors. We were surprised that they immediately tried to protect us, as well as ensuring we got the photos we needed. Laser pointers were used by people on the ground to spot the tear gas grenades in the air, ensuring that once they landed, no one was hit. It was amazing to see this teamwork and togetherness in an area where it seemed unlikely.

And Amgad Khater deserves a special thanks for his help last night! Without him, we'd have missed out on all of the action.

A man leads the prayer in Tahrir Square as the sun begins to set.

A man leads the prayer in Tahrir Square as the sun begins to set.

Mohamed Mahmoud Street as been informally renamed 'Freedom Eyes Street' in honour of the protestors who were blinded by police fire last November.

Mohamed Mahmoud Street as been informally renamed 'Freedom Eyes Street' in honour of the protestors who were blinded by police fire last November.

A member of the April 6th Movement (one of the early groups which helped start the Revolution) leads a chant in memory of a member who had been comatose since the beginning of the November 2012 clashes. He passed away three days ago.

A member of the April 6th Movement (one of the early groups which helped start the Revolution) leads a chant in memory of a member who had been comatose since the beginning of the November 2012 clashes. He passed away three days ago.

This was around 6 in the evening, before most of the marches even arrived in Tahrir Square.

This was around 6 in the evening, before most of the marches even arrived in Tahrir Square.

A lone artist works on his mural of famed Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz on Mohamed Mahmoud Street.

A lone artist works on his mural of famed Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz on Mohamed Mahmoud Street.

A protestor clad in a scarf and gasmask poses for the camera as tear gas rains down around in on the street leading to Simon Bolivar Square.

A protestor clad in a scarf and gasmask poses for the camera as tear gas rains down around in on the street leading to Simon Bolivar Square.

Groups of protestors run to a tear gas canister that had landed a few feet away. The canisters are then picked up and thrown back at the police or over walls.

Groups of protestors run to a tear gas canister that had landed a few feet away. The canisters are then picked up and thrown back at the police or over walls.

It takes a fairly large degree of courage or recklessness (depending on how you look at it) for these kids to be in the streets each day fighting. Many of them told me they'd been battling the police for the last year.

It takes a fairly large degree of courage or recklessness (depending on how you look at it) for these kids to be in the streets each day fighting. Many of them told me they'd been battling the police for the last year.

A protestor flashes the 'victory' sign as a canister is hurled back at police. Fireworks were soon shot at the police, prompting a barrage of tear gas grenades to come back.

A protestor flashes the 'victory' sign as a canister is hurled back at police. Fireworks were soon shot at the police, prompting a barrage of tear gas grenades to come back.

A child holds up one of the canisters that had been shot  from the police. The manufacture date for many of the canisters was 2012, meaning it is much more potent than last year's gas, but also dissipates quicker.

A child holds up one of the canisters that had been shot  from the police. The manufacture date for many of the canisters was 2012, meaning it is much more potent than last year's gas, but also dissipates quicker.

The Camels of Bawiti

Two weeks ago we were wrapping up a quick but surreal trip into the White Desert. On our last night, we took a walk from the eco-lodge to the surrounding area of Bawiti (a small town in the Baharia Oasis). We were in search of hot springs that turned out to be neither hot, nor springs.

We did, however, find something much cooler.

We stumbled onto what turned out to be a camel farm. In the oasis. In the desert. At least twenty camels were lined up against a trough of hay, happily munching away. Camels look hilarious, and these were no exception. 

The sun was beginning to set, and the light was looking phenomenal. A couple of the kids who lived beside the paddock came out to play and jump on the camels. We learned the camels were being raised for meat and milk.

Camel, for the record, tastes delicious.

We were later invited for tea by the man who lived beside the farm, and spent a good hour or two with his family (and neighbours) making origami for the kids (Claire, not me). Moments like this are when the hospitality and warmth of the people rises so far above any expectation, that you're left in a temporary stupor. One that you recover from when you realize how much sugar gets put in your tea!

Obviously the only way to get a good shot was to climb into the trough with the food.

Obviously the only way to get a good shot was to climb into the trough with the food.

These kids had zero camel fear. Especially when it came to chasing them around the paddock with sticks.

These kids had zero camel fear. Especially when it came to chasing them around the paddock with sticks.

Not everyone can be a giraffe. No harm in trying, though.

Not everyone can be a giraffe. No harm in trying, though.

My favourite kind of light! Yes, I do have favourite types of light. 4 actually.

My favourite kind of light! Yes, I do have favourite types of light. 4 actually.

This made my day. Actually, week.

This made my day. Actually, week.

This was our base camp for the first and last nights. Ugh, I think photography is turning me into a morning person.

This was our base camp for the first and last nights. Ugh, I think photography is turning me into a morning person.

Why I'm Here

I often get asked, both by friends back at home, as well as people here, 'Why are you in the Middle East? Isn't it dangerous?' For the most part, I've got a few quick response I give. But I do often struggle to find the perfect reason to describe why I find this place so compelling and consuming.

An article in GQ this month about the assassinated US Ambassador Chris Stevens captures the essence perfectly.

"For people like us, the Middle East is tantalizing. The smell of coffee with cardamom, and of apple tobacco burning in water pipes; the colour and touch of carpets and fabrics; the sounds of the muezzin call to prayers and the energy of crazy urban traffic and large desert landscapes. The warmth of its people and the sound of their music and language. If you combine that with analytical curiosity invested in understanding the long history of the region and the complex dynamics of its current politics, the Middle East is a place you can't resist. It is not only an intellectual endeavour- it makes you feel fully alive." 

  • Taken from 'Murder of An Idealist' (GQ Magazine, December 2012)

As I sat in El Fishawy cafe (where famed Egyptian author Naguib Mahfouz once wrote), I snapped this picture. In my mind, it captures so much about what I love here.

fishawy.jpg

Desert Television

"...there are blessings in the desert. You can be pulled into limitlessness, which we all yearn for, or you can do the beauty of minutiae, the scrimshaw of tiny and precise. The sky is your ocean, and the crystal silence will uplift you like great gospel music."

The desert, it turns out, is a pretty amazing place. The silence and vastness envelop you, and that's just during the daytime. In the night, when millions of stars emerge, you almost feel as though you're being sucked into a speckled vacuum.

And so we found ourselves in the White Desert National Park (a small northeastern section of the immense Sahara). All we had were sleeping bags, food, an awesome driver, cameras and a sense of amazement.

I recommend bringing the last item with you on every trip.

Much of the White Desert (a small section of the Western Desert) is made up of fossils dating back 80 million years. The white limestone looks like streaks of snow laying atop the sand. While it looks like snow, it feels like rock if you fall on it. Duly noted.

Very few moments or places in life let you transcend the continuity of time and feel a sense of nothingness and fullness at the same time. This place totally does.

I didn't think it was possible to fall into the sky. Until I ended up in the Western Desert.
I didn't think it was possible to fall into the sky. Until I ended up in the Western Desert.
I learned that the shortest way down from a large, steep ledge is straight down it. Take that, math class.
I learned that the shortest way down from a large, steep ledge is straight down it. Take that, math class.
The jeep we travelled in was a simultaneous rocket ship and time machine. This is where we ended up.

The jeep we travelled in was a simultaneous rocket ship and time machine. This is where we ended up.

We found friends in the desert! 

We found friends in the desert! 

It's hard to believe this was under the sea only 80 million short years ago. 
It's hard to believe this was under the sea only 80 million short years ago. 
The birthday girl snapping away. Perfect light? Indeed.

The birthday girl snapping away. Perfect light? Indeed.

Our campsite for the night. Although, a month or two would have also sufficed.

Our campsite for the night. Although, a month or two would have also sufficed.

I thought Ahmed's greatest skill was his superb navigation and driving in the desert. Until, of course, we tried his grilled chicken over an fire made from scraps of wood.

I thought Ahmed's greatest skill was his superb navigation and driving in the desert. Until, of course, we tried his grilled chicken over an fire made from scraps of wood.

In case you've ever wondered, this is what getting stuck in the middle of desert on your way home to Cairo looks like. 

In case you've ever wondered, this is what getting stuck in the middle of desert on your way home to Cairo looks like. 

Under the (Red) Sea

After a 12+ hour (each way) trek to Dahab via minibus and a plethora of police checkpoints, we found ourselves soaking in the town that was once a small Bedouin fishing village. It still retains a relaxed feel, contra it's older, cooler brother, Sharm el Sheikh. After photographing the Eid in the streets, we took to the sea to hang with some fish.

The Red Sea is renowned for its corals and diverse aquatic life. This, staged against jagged cliffs and beautiful sunsets makes diving one of the most relaxing and awe-inspiring endeavours one can do when on vacation. Especially if that vacation boasts crystal-clear water and temperatures in the mid-30s. 

This awesome-ness, however,  does come at a price.

Illegal fishing has become somewhat of a problem in this delicate ecosystem. Large fish like grouper are prized for their meat and have proven to be a draw for tourists. As the Red Sea Environmental Centre (RSEC) points out, these fish are often pulled from the protected reefs around Dahab. Unfortunately, they also have a high level of toxicity. Not only do restaurants catering to tourists draw in illegally fished meat, they endanger the health of those who eat it.

Corals also don't escape damage. Inexperienced divers accidentally kick up sand on the reefs, and the increased number of divers has exacerbated the damage.

The situation in Dahab isn't all doom and gloom though! The Egyptian-German/Austrian collaboration of RSEC has been working for years to monitor and protect the biodiversity in the areas, giving divers for years to come something to marvel at. You can check out their work at:

www.redsea-ec.org/englisch/index-en.php

As always, photos below!

Can backdrops get better than this? (I've been advised by a friend that in Oman, they are in fact better.)

Can backdrops get better than this? (I've been advised by a friend that in Oman, they are in fact better.)

Diving in less than 5 meters of water in the late afternoon with a point-and-shoot. 

Diving in less than 5 meters of water in the late afternoon with a point-and-shoot. 

There's something inherently relaxing and meditative to spending a bit of time in a world shared by 70%+ of the planet.

There's something inherently relaxing and meditative to spending a bit of time in a world shared by 70%+ of the planet.

This grouper was most likely illegally fished from one of the local reefs. It was being sold off in front of a restaurant for 100/LE for a fillet. 

This grouper was most likely illegally fished from one of the local reefs. It was being sold off in front of a restaurant for 100/LE for a fillet. 

Packing up after a beautiful dive at the Coral Garden. Shapeshifting/colour-changing octopus? Check. 

Packing up after a beautiful dive at the Coral Garden. Shapeshifting/colour-changing octopus? Check. 

Eid al Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)

As I mentioned before, the Eid celebration commemorates the sacrifice Abraham took upon himself in a show of devotion to God.​

​I hit the side streets and alleys of Dahab in the Sinai Peninsula to capture both the slaughter of goats and sheep, as well as the bargaining, togetherness and revelry that goes along with such an important celebration.

​I staked out a position at a butcher's shop, and made small talk (in the most broken Arabic in the Middle East) with a few of the men bartering a fair price for a sheep. 

​As one of the small goats was sacrificed, a man walked up telling me to stop taking pictures. I asked why, and he replied that scenes like these portrayed Egyptians as savages.

​I reassured him that I had no intention of showing the celebration in that way. His worry that the ritual would show Egyptians in a poor light worried me.

​Below is my best attempt to honestly convey the story in images.

Eid mubarak to all of my Muslim friends!​

​A Bedouin man texts on his phone as he passes goats in the street.

​A Bedouin man texts on his phone as he passes goats in the street.

​Might as well have been his yearbook photo! Keeping it cool.

​Might as well have been his yearbook photo! Keeping it cool.

An unfortunate exercise in mortality for this sheep.

An unfortunate exercise in mortality for this sheep.

​One of the most enjoyable aspects of the process is the bartering over a fair price. This sheep weighed in at around 50kg, and the going rate was 37 LE/kilo.

​One of the most enjoyable aspects of the process is the bartering over a fair price. This sheep weighed in at around 50kg, and the going rate was 37 LE/kilo.

​A man reads Koranic verses in the butcher's shop. To ensure the killing is halal (following the prescriptions of Islamic law)​ a prayer is said the moment before the slaughter. Additionally, the knife must be incredibly sharp to reduce an…

​A man reads Koranic verses in the butcher's shop. To ensure the killing is halal (following the prescriptions of Islamic law)​ a prayer is said the moment before the slaughter. Additionally, the knife must be incredibly sharp to reduce any suffering.

​The meat of this small goat will be divided equally to the purchaser, family and the poor.

​The meat of this small goat will be divided equally to the purchaser, family and the poor.

eidadha-7.jpg
​I love this photo. In my mind, it captures the essence of the celebration- the imminent slaughter of the animal, those who died before it, and the juxtaposition it holds against daily life by a fruit stand. 

​I love this photo. In my mind, it captures the essence of the celebration- the imminent slaughter of the animal, those who died before it, and the juxtaposition it holds against daily life by a fruit stand. 

Eid al Adha + the Sinai Peninusla

Each year, Muslims around the world celebrate Eid al Adha. It is a symbolic representation of Abraham's almost-sacrifice of his son Ishmael, where the placeholder of the son is taken by a sheep or cow. 

Muslims are required to give 1/3 of the slaughtered animal to the poor, give 1/3 to family and 1/3 to be kept for themselves.

I will be (hopefully) photographing the upcoming slaughter with the Bedouins in the Sinai Peninsula. The area has been in the news because of recent unrest, but its repution is matched and exceed by the stunning beauty by the mountains that line it.

We will also be diving for hammerhead sharks in the channel between disputed land (claimed by both Saudi Arabia and Egypt). A dream come true? Maybe.

Moral of the story? Gone for 5 days, and photos to follow!

​Recycling is the theme of the month, so reusing photos still counts!

​Recycling is the theme of the month, so reusing photos still counts!

​I think I'll be able to deal with this.

​I think I'll be able to deal with this.

​Beautiful sunsets. Just beautiful.

​Beautiful sunsets. Just beautiful.

Tahrir Square, Redux

​While the revolution may have faded from the front pages of newspapers around the world (at least until fresh violence erupts) protests still occur most Fridays.

Last week, the Muslim Brotherhood begrudgingly admitted that members of its group clashed with those opposed to their rule on the side streets of Tahrir Square. This marked the first serious violence related to government protests since last summer.

They say that revolutions can make for strange bedfellows. Yesterday, members of liberal parties, socialist (Nasserist) and communist parties, as well as Shia Muslims and Coptic Christians all attended rallies against President Mohamed Morsi's rule, and the perceived dominance of the Muslim Brotherhood.

In the end minor scuffles punctuated what was a fairly tame affair. 

​Some people have a face for the radio. This guy has a face for protests.

​Some people have a face for the radio. This guy has a face for protests.

​Many minority Coptic Christians feel they've lost the protection from the government they were previously afforded.

​Many minority Coptic Christians feel they've lost the protection from the government they were previously afforded.

​This picture only makes it onto 'Field Notes' because of how many attempt it took for them to actually light the flag on fire.

​This picture only makes it onto 'Field Notes' because of how many attempt it took for them to actually light the flag on fire.

​This kid was even worse at lighting anything on fire, and that's saying a lot.

​This kid was even worse at lighting anything on fire, and that's saying a lot.

​This ended up being the general vibe of the gatherings as the sun set, contra any 'conflict-esque- photos that may have made the news.

​This ended up being the general vibe of the gatherings as the sun set, contra any 'conflict-esque- photos that may have made the news.

(Dance) Protests Rock Cairo

As the viral clips of The Innocence of Muslims incited protests around the Middle East, I was able to capture these unfortunate images of large groups

The first, a group of Sudanese paraded down the street, drums beating and people moving with jubilation. Nothing is more awesome than a street wedding in the middle of the evening when you're about to go to a rock show. Played by Canadian/American bands. In Cairo.

​The second set of images were my first foray in to the wedding/engagement style of shots. While it's not the direction I see my images going in the near future, it was still an excellent atmosphere to shoot!

​A heartfelt 'mabrouk' to both!

The groom riding high on his dance/party wedding.

The groom riding high on his dance/party wedding.

​Despite the joyous atmosphere, her facial expressions changed once. Total.

​Despite the joyous atmosphere, her facial expressions changed once. Total.

​When you've got moves, you've gotta bust 'em!

​When you've got moves, you've gotta bust 'em!

​Capturing candid moments is a challenge, but well worth it in the end.

​Capturing candid moments is a challenge, but well worth it in the end.

A progressively rarer foray into black and white. Ramez and Maro, mabrouk!​

A progressively rarer foray into black and white. Ramez and Maro, mabrouk!​

First dance!​

First dance!​

Instant Nostalgia

​While the temperature still hovers around the mid 30's in Cairo, the only way to keep cool is to browse through my photos of hiking, mountain lakes and travels to Seattle. It's surprising how quickly nostalgia can wash over you, given that these trips happened only a few weeks ago. It's like Instagram, minus the lame filters.

​The West Coast + a little Seattle's Best (and not the coffee)! Enjoy!

Cooking up breakfast. I didn't know you can burn/ruin Starbucks Via. It is indeed very possible.​​

Cooking up breakfast. I didn't know you can burn/ruin Starbucks Via. It is indeed very possible.​

Really the only way to eat a scavenged ​tin of beans and fire-toasted bread.

Really the only way to eat a scavenged ​tin of beans and fire-toasted bread.

One thing I'll miss about Seattle is the genuinely awesome feeling this city gives off. And street music too. Good, good street music.​

One thing I'll miss about Seattle is the genuinely awesome feeling this city gives off. And street music too. Good, good street music.​

Seattle Library. Architectural marvel? Indeed. Cast aside in the digital age? I hope not!​

Seattle Library. Architectural marvel? Indeed. Cast aside in the digital age? I hope not!​

Contra the title of the sport, the boats are neither paddled by dragons, nor made from dragons. Still, a great thing to watch!​

Contra the title of the sport, the boats are neither paddled by dragons, nor made from dragons. Still, a great thing to watch!​

Zen and the Art of Photography

Time to wax philosophical about photos. You can blame my summer read of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance (and probably my whole 5 years at university) for this.

I often struggle to take a good photo. 

Maybe I've taken a great one. Maybe not. Who knows. But what I do know, is that I've taken a ton of bad ones. The reason I struggle: I often wonder 'how can I produce a good photo?' and more important, what makes a good photo 'good'? In my mind, it should make me feel something. When I look inside, at what I like in a photo, I know that I need something almost tangible. When I see great bokeh (the out-of-focus part of a photo that encircles a crisp portrait shot), I feel pulled in by the it tightly wraps around the image. Can I anticipate what creates that pull? Or do I only know it when I see it? Importantly, how understandable is my pull to the viewer? 

What I need, and want, is to transcend the constraints of the traditional relationship that defines a photograph and its viewer. As with any mildly philosophical enquiry, more questions are raised than answered.

 Simply, I want something that engages the viewer. Something more than an image. 

Often novelty can do this. In some areas where I've travelled, the sheer amazement from seeing a picture or portrait on a tiny screen is just awesome. This can be the only time a person has seen his or her face on a digital screen.

Every time I bring my camera out, my goal is to show how simply awesome things and people are, in the best way I can.  Sometimes I succeed in doing this. Other times I don't. 

"Beauty can be seen in all things, seeing and composing the beauty is what separates the snapshot from the photograph" Matt Hardy

The pursuit of beautiful moments- the best thing ever, no matter the challenge​

The pursuit of beautiful moments- the best thing ever, no matter the challenge​

Show and tell time in Uganda.​

Show and tell time in Uganda.​

Fellow photographer Ryan Ihle shows a portrait to a child sponsored by GAAF. Uganda​

Fellow photographer Ryan Ihle shows a portrait to a child sponsored by GAAF. Uganda​

The Inventor

Sometimes I challenge myself to write about a person, rather than taking his or her picture. Sometimes I do both. This piece was written on a trip to Syria in 2010. References to a massacre in Hama are the 1981 massacre, and do not refer to the atrocities of today. Sadly enough, the city has seen more than it's fair share of devastation.

Two tones. Maybe two and a half. The brown dye fell into black and was littered with grey. So maybe three.

I'd never seen a combover so combed over. The hair surged from the base of his head, wrapping itself in a coiffed helmet. 

"I'm an inventor," he told us, fresh green almonds gripped between hairy fingers, bits of salt spotting the green like the grey spotted his black and brown hair.

"What have you invented?" 

"A water pipe that you don't smoke. You use cough syrup." A better answer couldn't have come from a polyester suited Syrian who whirred around town on an electric scooter. 

"Really?" We exchanged glances.

"Really. Almond?" Hands thrust forward, he munched and thought, crunched and pondered. "Come with me for dinner."

His scooter had only room for one passenger. Two if someone wanted to ride on the basket. We opted for one. 

In the thumping heart of Hama, the arteries pushed through car after car, horn after horn.

"Don't be scared- I do this all the time," he reassured me as he readjusted the mirror on the left side, bent freshly from hitting a stopped car.

"They all know me! See how everyone's waving?" He turned back to look at me, polyester jacket facing the flipped up fingers and blasts of oncoming drivers.

He flitted and jolted through the bloodstream. His bushy hands were light on the brakes, but also sometimes late on the brakes. My life would have flashed before my eyes, but his hair blocked the images, and they fell to the ground, run over by his electric scoot.

He kicked the stand out and parked the contraption, brushing off a leaf on the seat like the insults hurled at him fluttered off the hair helmet. "We'll meet my friends."

'Stayin' Alive' by the Bee Gees played in my head as the trio strutted ahead of me, pleated legs swaying and glances swerving. Nods given and hands gripped, these men were movers, and judging by their gait, shakers. They ran the town with their swagger alone.

They knew a place, he said. A friend's. Good food. Welcome. Welcome to Syria.

Menus came out, and we scanned the Arabic, pretending to know what we were reading. We'll have the meat, we decided.

"150 grams? Not enough." His jowls swayed, but the hair stayed firm. It was the terra firma to his quaking gestures. Hands gesticulated, arms waved. More meat! More meat! The waiter wouldn't budge.

Sometimes a principled stand needs to be taken- sometimes trivialities need to be brushed aside, and a forceful roots need to be planted. There is a time and a place, and a restaurant in Hama has neither. The swish swish of polyester led us out of restaurant, the tempers of the trio still fuming.

He knew another place. With more meat. 150? What is that? His friend's. Well, he knows the owner.

Water and yogurt with salt becomes an acquired taste. With oregano it becomes a different story. We gulped down the seasoned drink to quench the heat of the night. We chased with water. 

The florescent lights overhead shone down onto vinyl covered seats. It was as if time had taken a rest in this place, and decided it liked what it saw. The polyester pant legs that swung to the beat of arabesque music fit. They almost fit too tight- an uncomfortable hug.

I'd been given lessons earlier in life about table manners. You never know when you'll be eating with the Queen, I was told. Tonight I was eating with the Kings of Style and convention was tossed out. 

"Try the salad. With lemon- no. Like that. Did I tell you my brothers and father were killed in the massacre? Ah- try this humus. Use the bread."

No topic was off limits to them- or at least to one. The other stayed true to his craft.

"Yes, you see, you put the cough syrup in and then inhale. You willl feel very good."

"Really? I mean, cough syrup? You don't see something wrong with that?"

"Yes I need to find a fair in Canada. Do you know about it? In Scarborough."

We danced for the whole dinner, sidestepping and twirling away from talk of chopped off heads and hands, and green cough syrup.

The bill couldn't have come at a better time, and the expressions couldn't have been more worrying. The inventor scrunched his forehead, the helmet moving as one. He called over the owner. They talked. The meat seemed to have been good weight, we thought.

"There has been mistake with the owner- he is not my friend anymore. He will not give me a discount." A bill landed on our plates. 

"I am sorry. Please, let me take you for tea. To make up for this."

We indulged him, and cut through the night air with the strides of a group that's eaten too much. 

A large bottle of water! Yes four teas! We sipped and watched the television. He excused himself to the washroom. He must have eaten some bad humus- he was taking forever. 

"Sir, you-your friend has left without paying for the drinks," a beanstalk of a man sidled up to the table and with a voice that cracked and fell from his mouth, told us we'd lost our man.

"Oh." 

Maybe the embarrassment of not getting a discount had made him flee. Maybe an epiphany about his invention had caused him to take flight. Or maybe the two Canadians left to foot the $1.50 had been played by the coiffed inventor. Maybe the King of Style had struck again, and somewhere on a dark road, the notes of a time past but still present played to his strut.

Home

It seems like most of my time when not travelling is spent trying to think of cool and unique places to check out, then travel to those places. 

Repeat as necessary. 

The only disruption to this ruthlessly circular system is the time spent taking and editing photos.

Often, though, the places I grew up with, the scenes that played out all-to-regularly year after year, never seem to make the list of travel destinations.

How wrong I was. 

Home refreshes the mind. So too does coffee, but home can do it with water, trees, trails, great food and better people. Home rekindles the need to see more. It gives a context and framework to the sights and sounds along the way.

Unfortunately, it is a short return. The unpacked bags still lie packed in my room. In a few days, I'll be in Seattle. A few days after that, Cairo.

While each departure is marked by a subtle sadness, there's always the glimmer of new adventure. Famed naturalist and current food-for-worms John Muir said it best:

'The world's big, and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.'

Here are a few photos to highlight the awesomeness of being home.

You can only hike through so much nature until you have to stop and soak in the beauty.​

You can only hike through so much nature until you have to stop and soak in the beauty.​

Dinner for two.​

Dinner for two.​

​
Snow in August? Sure!​

Snow in August? Sure!​

​
​

Into the Wild

“We can never have enough of nature. We must be refreshed by the sight of inexhaustible vigor, vast and titanic features, the sea-coast with its wrecks, the wilderness with its living and its decaying trees, the thunder-cloud, and the rain.” -Thoreau, written at Walden Pond

​We've all got a Walden Pond. Sometimes it's not a pond. Maybe it's a lake. Or a forest. Or an entire province. We crave an escape in some form- sometimes mental, often a metaphysical departure from the turmoil that envelops us. A respite from the manifest stress of our daily routines.

Time for 10 days at my Walden. ​

Photos to come.​

Fish Lake, Top of the World Provincial Park. 2010.​

Fish Lake, Top of the World Provincial Park. 2010.​

Muzungu, Give Me My Picture!

The one question I get asked most when I take photos travelling is 'Do you work for National Geographic?'

I wish.

The second question, though, is more telling. "Can I have the picture?" Or a hand gesture removing what must be the memory card from my camera. No, you can't have my memory card.

With digital cameras being the camera franca, and images appearing in the Facebook albums rather than bound books, the desire for a physical photo seems antiquated or misplaced. I've made many a promise that 'Tomorrow I'll print one out'. There are at least 35 guys in the souk near my apartment in Egypt that I owe photos to. Tomorrow.

Now, cue two awesome and well-thought-out gifts. The Fujifilm Instax instant camera, and the Polaroid PoGo photo printer. The first pops out an old school idea in new school form. Instant photos spit out of the top of the white camera, and the moment is tangible as the photographer and subject wait in anticipation for the image to appear. If I had a word to describe the subsequent 15 minutes where the person won't take their eyes off the photo, and then carefully tucks the photo into his or her pocket, I'd be working in Fuji's marketing department. I originally saw it used by talented photographer Brian Van Wyk (www.brianvanwykphotography.com) and then one was given to me by my awesome girlfriend as a birthday present.

The PoGo is a small (that's an understatement) printer from a company desperate to keep itself relevant in the digital age. It's roughly the size of a BlackBerry. No screens. One button. 10 prints. No smudges. Just plug in the camera to the printer, and a minute or two later, a photo makes its way out. 

These two devices fill a void most photographers suspected existed, but have only now confirmed. They create conversation and trust- two things photographers crave with their subjects. And they can create scuffles in the street. Try dividing a single photo by 15 people.

Even a retired NatGeo editor was taken in by it. "Can I have a print?" he asked.

"Sure!" I said.

"This is your CV, not a picture." 

"Hey, I tried." 

In the end, he and 30+ other people got photos. And I almost got a job at NatGeo. Almost.

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Photo credit: Claire Hage​

Photo credit: Claire Hage​

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Art and Genocide

"When Winston Churchill was prime minister and he was told that there were going to have to be major cuts in arts and culture because of the mounting costs of world war II, he responded with a simple reply: 'Then what are we fighting for'?"

​This quote is actually fictitious in its origins, but who cares. 

The 1994 Rwandan genocide resulted in the deaths of more than 800,000 people (or 20% of the population of Rwanda at the time). With wounds like this, art can and does heal.

Enter Kibe, a man of both eclectic talent and location. The son of a Congolese father and Rwandan mother, Kibe was forced to flee his home of Kigali when the genocide started. His shelter in the Congo was short lived, when civil war forced him to Juba. Talk about an inadvertent affinity for conflict.

He's now in his element with a cigarette between his fingers and a swath of canvases at his feet. Having returned to his home of Kigali, he works with kids who were orphaned by the genocide. Together, mentor and protege, they produce great art. Their studio still wears the scars of the past, but the art moves them forward.

The days are spent laughing and creating. Almost by accident, they'e created a true, uncontrived artist collective.

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Bullet holes serve as a poignant reminder to a dark but recent past. "There were bodies just lying in the street, blood everywhere," says Kibe.​

Bullet holes serve as a poignant reminder to a dark but recent past. "There were bodies just lying in the street, blood everywhere," says Kibe.​

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Gorillas of the Mist

​When I found out there were gorillas in Uganda, I was excited. 

When I found out of the remaining 700 mountain gorillas in the world, 300 lived in Uganda, I got even more excited, tempered only by the depressing numbers still alive.

When I ended up 3 meters from a silverback tearing down a whole tree for lunch, my life was pretty much complete.​

​Hunted for bushmeat, forced from their habitat through deforestation and pushed to the brink of extinction, the mountain gorilla lives a precarious life. Unable to survive in captivity, they exist only in the wild, high up in the mountainous forests of East Africa.

And I, living my wildest dreams (and hiking through dense jungle for a good 4 hours), got to see them. ​

They live in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park (aptly named), bordering the conflict-ridden Congo. The economic value of gorilla tourism has led to a concerted effort by the Ugandan Wildlife Authority (UWA) to protect the remaining gorillas at all costs.​ The money that comes in from the sale of permits goes to conservation efforts and ranger salaries. The number of people per hike is capped at 8, and 7 different groups break off. Of the 31 families in Bwindi, 10 have been habituated for contact with humans (as gorillas are naturally afraid of their not-so-distant genetic relative). This all culminates in one full hour of inexplicably awesome contact with one of the coolest animals on the planet.

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Malaria

​While the summer months in Canada usher in more time in the sun, the nights also hit back with more time being eaten by mosquitoes. For most of us, they become an annoyance that we learn to deal with. However, for many countries in sub-Saharan Africa, they mean much more.

In Uganda, malaria, which is transferred through mosquitoes, is endemic in 95% of the country, It's also the leading cause of death for children under the age of 5. When the numbers are crunched, around 100,000 deaths are attributed each year to malaria.​

​As a traveller, I was fortunate enough to have the drug mefloquine to prevent the disease. Worst side effect? Slightly weird but hilarious dreams. Unfortunately, many kids don't get access to these drugs. 

Here's the crazy thing about malaria. It's totally preventable. With a $5 net. And you can help buy these nets for people in Uganda.

Here's the site: http://www.canadianfeedthechildren.ca/how-you-can-help/fund-a-project/mosquito-nets/

​ These nets are 90% effective, meaning the kids have one less thing to worry about.

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Uganda and Rwanda

These photos are the result of 20 days in Uganda and Rwanda. The scenery constantly changed from endangered mountain gorillas and elephants, to emerging Rwanadan artists. However, the most memorable part of the trip was from the 6 days of staying in Conde Hill village. There, I had the pleasure to work with the Gideon Anti-Aids Foundation (http://www.gaaf.org.uk/). It is a small charity set up by Gideon, a man who lost 37 of his 39 siblings to HIV/AIDS. He now takes in children from the village who have lost their family to HIV/AIDS. While the kids don't have much, as a result of GAAF's work, they still have a family. Check out their website and view the projects. If you feel like you want to help, there's a donation page. Having stayed there and helped out, I can actually say that all of the money donated goes to help these children. The 11 kids that live in the children's village built by GAAF now have a safe place to sleep at night, and people who care for them like their own children. 

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